American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Patagonia, Aguja dela Silla, East Spur, and Aguja Bifida, North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Aguja de la Silla, East Spur, and Aguja Bífida, North Face. On February 21, Swiss Peter Lüthi and Argentine Horacio Bresba made the first ascent of the Aguja de la Silla (2978 meters, 9770 feet) by its eastern spur. They approached via the Paso Superior, the Brecha de la Italianos and the Silla Americana. They climbed ten mixed or ice pitches and five pure rock pitches. Some of the ice was 60°. From the col, after a 50-meter pitch on the north face, they climbed beautiful cracks to a recess on the eastern crest. They then kept somewhat to the left (south) of the crest to the summit blocks. They climbed the first block up a chimney on its east and then north and the second up a wide crack on its south side. (UIAA VI +, A1.) The same pair did one of the most interesting climbs of the 1988-9 season when they ascended the north face of the Aguja Bífida (2450 meters, 7956 feet). The climb had been attempted by climbers from Buenos Aires, who failed because of technical difficulties. The wall rises some 750 meters, was of sustained UIAA VI+ and had places of A1. They climbed 22 rope-lengths in a single day, March 2, and had to make several pendulums. There was much rotten rock in the upper half. They rappelled down the same route. They found signs of the previous attempt to within 120 meters of the summit.

Vojslav Arko, Club Andino Bariloche

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