American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Chile, Umarata and Other Peaks,1984 and 1985

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Umarata and Other Peaks, 1984 and 1985. Important climbs have been belatedly filed with the Federación de Andinismo de Chile. In August 1984, 30 climbers, including four women, climbed in the Nevados de Quimsachata, in Lauca National Park on the Chilean-Bolivian border. Acontango (6052 meters, 19,855 feet) received its second, third and fourth ascents on August 11,12 and 13, 1984, Capurata (5990 meters, 19,653 feet) its second on August 12, Guallatiri, an active volcano, (6071 meters, 19,918 feet) its fourth on August 13 and Umarata (5717 meters, 18,758 feet) its first and second on August 13 and 14. The leader was Edmundo Lagos. In 1985, two university groups were active in the same region. On August 4, 1985, 37 mountaineers from the Catholic University of Santiago, led by Renato Campodónico, crossed the frontier into Bolivia and placed a camp on the slopes of Sajama (6520 or 6546 meters, 21,391 or 21,463 feet). Twelve reached the summit, including Julieta Mery, one of the first women to have climbed the highest mountain in Bolivia. At the same time a University of Chile group of 38, led by Claudio Gálvez, camped below the frontier massif of Larancagua. On August 5, 1985, 18 climbers ascended Cerro Guaneguane (5100 meters, 16,733 feet). On the 7th, six made the first ascent of Nevado Larancagua (5433 meters, 17,824) while six others made the first ascent of Nevado Condoriri (c. 5250 meters, 17,225 feet). An attempt on Sajama failed.

Evelio Echevarría

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