American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Iscacuchu, Cololo, Huelancalloc and Other Peaks, Northern Pupuya Group, Cordillera Apolobamba

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1990

Iscacuchu, Cololo, Huelancalloc and Other Peaks, Northern Pupuya Group, Cordillera Apolobamba. Steve Hillen, leader, Ian Burgess, Ian Diamond, David Lister, Tim and Kathy Mather, Ian Woolgar and I visited the southern Cordillera Apolobamba. This region had been previously visited by Germans in 1957 (AAJ, 1958, p. 102) and by Japanese in 1961 (AAJ, 1962, p. 254) and 1965 (AAJ, 1966, pp. 182-3). On July 28, we drove from La Paz to Paso Osipal between the Pupuya and the Cololo groups and the next day set up Base Camp two kilometers southeast of the pass at 4900 meters in a pasture below the glacier of Iscacuchu. During the next three weeks, we climbed most of the peaks near the pass. The triple-summited peak of Iscacuchu (5665 meters, 18,586 feet) was climbed several times: direct north faces of the southwest (Diamond, Hillen; August 1) and central (Burgess, Lister; August 3) summits, and complete traverses both southwest-northeast (Burgess, Lister, T. Mather; August 10) and northeast-southwest (Shellabear, Woolgar; August 14). Huerancalloc (5836 meters, 19,145 feet) was traversed by Diamond, Hillen, Woolgar and me on August 10; we ascended the west ridge from a cave bivouac at 5000 meters and descended the north ridge. Cololo (5915 meters, 19,405 feet) was climbed on the second attempt via the west ridge by Burgess, Hillen, Lister, T. and K. Mather on August 13. The following peaks were also ascended; Mita (5465 meters, 17,930 feet) via north ridge on July 31 by Burgess, Lister and on August 17 by Diamond, Hillen, Shellabear, Woolgar; Wellencamp (5185 meters, 17,011 feet; assumed to be the rock peak northeast of the Iscacuchu group) via northwest ridge by Diamond, Shellabear on August 13 and by T. and K. Mather on August 16; twin-summited P 5375 (17,634 feet; just north of Iscacuchu) via north-south traverse by Hillen, Woolgar on August 6; Posnansky (5385 meters, 17,667 feet) via southwest ridge of the south summit by Shellabear, Woolgar on August 7; Cunuareya (5370 meters, 17,618 feet; rock peak two kilometers north of Paso Osipal) via northeast ridge by Burgess, Lister, K. Mather on August 5 and by Diamond, Hillen on August 8; Sunchuli (5305 meters, 17,405 feet; snow peak one kilometer southeast of Posnansky) via west flank by T. Mather, Shellabear on August 4 and by Diamond, Woolgar on August 15. The last two names were given us by local shepherds.

Michael Shellabear, Loughborough Students Mountaineering Club, UK

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