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South America, Peru, Quitaraju, Alpamayo, Tsurup, Pisco, Ocshapalca, Cayesh

Quitaraju, Alpamayo, Tsurup, Pisco, Ocshapalca, Cayesh. For acclimatization Joan Amils and I climbed the north face of Quitaraju on June 16 and the southwest face of Alpamayo. On June 28, we repeated the 1982 Spanish route on the southwest face of Tsurup, a fine, difficult ice route. Jordi Sunyer then joined us and we did Pisco for his acclimatization. We three, joined by Amandi Obregón, did a route, possibly a new one, on the south face of Ocshapalca on July 11. It ascended one of the flutes to the right of Grassi’s and emerged on the rock ridge to the right of the summit. It averaged 60° to 70° with 85° to 90° in the last two pitches. Our last climb was the northwest face of Cayesh, where Amils, Sunyer and I on July 19 to 20 climbed the 1986 British route with a bivouac on the face.

Toni Casas, Barcelona, Spain