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South America, Ecuador, Cayambe, North Side, Cotopaxi, Yanasacha Wall and Tungurahua, Southwest Flank and South Ridge

Cayambe, North Side, Cotopaxi, Yanasacha Wall and Tungurahua, Southwest Flank and South Ridge. A new route on the north side of Cayambe (5789 meters, 18,993 feet) was completed on August 9, 1988 by four residents of Quito, some of them foreign: Luis Gonano, Eric Lawrie, David Purdy and Phil Townsend. They started from Lago San Marcos, ascended the glacier, the north face and the north buttress. They bivouacked 100 meters below the summit. The last part was extremely steep with crevasses and séracs. They descended the normal route. Although it is only some 350 feet high, the Yanasacha rock wall provided a direct ascent up the north side of Cotopaxi (5997 meters, 19,345 feet). It is a fairly difficult climb because of the unstable volcanic rock. On May 1, 1989, Emilio Salgado, Jorge Peñafiel, Eduardo Agama and Danilo Mayorga climbed this new route. After the wall, they encountered only ice. On February 26, Pablo Catalán and Alfredo Mensi climbed Volcán Tungurahua (5005 meters, 16,420 feet) for the first time by its southwest flank and south ridge.

Freddy Landázuri, Editor, Campo Abierto, Quito