American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Greenland, Peaks above Fenrisgletscher, Schweizerland, East Greenland

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Peaks Above Fenrisgletscher, Schweizerland, East Greenland. Elziro Molin, Gastone Lorenzini and I as leader were helicoptered from Tasiilaq on June 26 to a 1050-meter-high Base Camp in an unexplored region near the head of the Fenrisgletscher just below the Inland Icecap. In beautiful weather, we ascended the next day a side glacier to the east and climbed the principal peak in 11 hours on slopes up to 55°. After a period of rest, Molin and Lorenzini climbed P 2080 (6,824 feet) from the south and then traversed south to the top of P 2180 (7,153 feet). Meanwhile, I crossed the Fenrisgletscher solo to the western edge of the glacier and entered a cirque opposite Base Camp. I climbed a steep icefall with pitches up to 85° where I had access to the summits of four peaks, three along the western wall of the glacier and P 2010 (6595 feet). I was back in Base Camp after 25 hours. Thus, in ten days we explored the region and made seven first ascents.

Gianni Pais Becher, Club Alpino Italiano

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