American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Canada, Selkirks, Moby Dick, 1988

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Moby Dick, 1988. The very prominent steep and crevassed north glacier of Moby Dick was climbed for the second time on July 24, 1988 by Dave Pollari, Jim Ruch and me. During a 1986 trip into the Battle Range we had contemplated the route, but wide-open crevasses and threatening séracs made us opt for rock routes. In 1988, as in 1978, the conditions were excellent with a few short steep snow-and-ice sections amid moderate glacier runouts. One crevasse was a problem on the ascent but quite jumpable on the descent. (Grade III.) On July 25, 1988, Pollari and Ruch climbed a prominent curved dihedral on the major rock buttress left (east) of the north glacier, which they called The Boomerang. There were a number of wet, polished slabs and mixed ice-and-rock pitches. The route was more committing than the north glacier and ended on the summit ridge east of the top. They descended the north glacier. (Grade IV.)

Fred Beckey

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