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Canada, British Columbia Coast Range, Heartstone Peak, North Buttress

Heartstone Peak, North Buttress. In late July, from a fine camp on a tiny outcrop at the edge of the Cataract Glacier icefall, Carl Diedrich, Greg Collum and I spent a beautiful day ascending this unclimbed buttress. The route was entirely snow and ice, the first part taking a traverse to the eastern part of the glacier, beneath the Four Horsemen. The untechnical ascent of the lower glacier, keeping close to the lower northern buttress, took several hours of weaving through crevasses. From the final col, where the striking narrow snow-and-ice crest of the upper buttress begins, we followed the crest. A pitch of rock completed the climb. We descended to the Tellot Glacier and then down the narrow, crevassed Cataract Glacier.

Fred Beckey