American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Canada, Yukon Territory, McArthur Peak, Central Spur of South Face, 1988

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

McArthur Peak, Central Spur of South Face, 1988. From May 22, 1988 through May 26, Tim Friesen, Ken Wallator and I climbed a new line on a very prominent spur on the south face of McArthur Peak. The 7000-foot route offered excellent climbing on steep snow and ice and reasonably solid granite. We reached the 14,000-foot summit early on May 26 in -30° temperatures. I cracked a bone in my foot in a short fall into a crevasse on the summit ridge but could complete the climb. We descended the west ridge for a short way and then dropped straight back down the south face to the Hubbard Glacier. Following this climb, Wallator and Friesen climbed the east ridge of Mount Logan in a remarkable six-day effort.

Charles Scott, Alpine Club of Canada

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