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United States, Utah, Cottontail Tower, East Face, Fisher Towers

Cottontail Tower, East Face, Fisher Towers. This is an area known for soft, dirty rock and aid routes with long bolt ladders. Mine was the first major route without bolts and other drilled protection. There were long run-outs of A4, with potential multi-pitch rips. The route features extensive hooking and bashies with a crux pitch of thin, rotten expanding rock, looking at the big death fall. The last pitch goes all free at 5.10 and I got to the summit via an unprotected arĂȘte. I spent one night and nine days doing this 900-foot route. (VI, 5.10, A6.)

James Beyer