American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

United States, California—Sierra Nevada, "Es lasst sich nicht lesen "

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

North Palisade, “Es lässt sich nicht lesen."” The day after climbing the previous two routes, Cameron Bums and I attempted to climb the west-face route on this peak. Unfortunately, we got lost trying to follow the description in the guidebook. We followed what we thought was the “wide chute” until it narrowed. Then we followed a white band to the right for several hundred feet, dropping down at one point to avoid a difficult unprotected traverse. At that point we had entered a steep, snow-filled couloir. Roping up, I led the first pitch, which involved 5.10 face moves on the right side of the couloir. The next pitch ascended left-facing comers to a large flat area. Two easy leads took us left across this flat area into an easy chimney system. The last pitch, also easy, gained the summit ridge behind a tower. We then dropped down onto the regular route and scrambled to the summit. (III, 5.10.)

Steve Porcella, Unaffiliated

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