United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Mount Tyndall, Northeast Arete

Publication Year: 1990.

Mount Tyndall, Northeast Arête. The east face of Mount Tyndall is one of the most impressive walls in the Sierra Nevada. In early June, after spending two days watching avalanches sweep down the left side of the face, Cameron Burns and I decided to try what we believe was the unclimbed northeast arête. At its base is a large broken crack that ascends vertically for about two pitches, then splits, giving the appearance of a large “Y”. Cameron took the first pitch, climbing a difficult bulge a short way up; however, the crux was higher on the pitch, a difficult face step off a sloping triangular block on the left side of the crack. On a ledge at the end of the fifth pitch, we were surprised to find the remains of a deer carcass, obviously dead from exposure. Class 4 and 5 slabs and a short headwall took us from there to the summit. (III, 5.9.)

Steve Porcella, Unaffiliated