American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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United States, California—Yosemite, Bunnell Point, Little Yosemite, "The Golden Bear"

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Bunnell Point, Little Yosemite, “The Golden Bear.” In June, Richard Swayze and I climbed two-and-a-half pitches on this large formation before retreating due to a lack of bolts. Mike Jauregui and I returned the following month to complete the climb. The route basically follows a huge dike that starts near the center of the wall and slants up and left for hundreds of feet. Two pitches follow the dike up and over a roof to a belay at the higher of two ledges. The third and fourth pitches (both 5.10) follow bolts left into a right-facing open-book, then up the book to a belay at a flake. The route climbs dikes over the book past two bolts to another belay. Several more dike pitches lead up and left to a ledge just east of an open-book with a squatty pine. Face climbing leads through a small but prominent white scar to a series of small comers which face right, then left higher up. Enjoyable climbing up these comers brought us to a solitary summit pine. Take a good selection of RPs and stoppers and one of each Friend of size 0 to 3½. We placed 15 bolts in 19 pitches. (V, 5.10b.)

Bart O’Brien

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