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United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Lexington Spire, East Face, Right Side, "Tooth and Claw"

Lexington Spire, East Face, Right Side, “Tooth and Claw.” This seven-pitch route ascends slabs, roofs and discontinuous systems to the right of the standard east-face route. On June 24, Dave Tower and I scrambled to the highest ledge at the base of the face and climbed easily to bolted friction climbing. From here, the route is fairly obvious. The third pitch shares a belay with the standard route, but instead of following the open-book to the left, we climbed directly up to the small roofs above. The first five leads are all difficult, with the crux friction slab on the fifth pitch. A little loose rock is found on the last pitch, but otherwise the climb is solid and well protected. (IV, 5.11d.)

Steven C. Risse