American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Lexington Spire, East Face, Right Side, "Tooth and Claw"

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Lexington Spire, East Face, Right Side, “Tooth and Claw.” This seven-pitch route ascends slabs, roofs and discontinuous systems to the right of the standard east-face route. On June 24, Dave Tower and I scrambled to the highest ledge at the base of the face and climbed easily to bolted friction climbing. From here, the route is fairly obvious. The third pitch shares a belay with the standard route, but instead of following the open-book to the left, we climbed directly up to the small roofs above. The first five leads are all difficult, with the crux friction slab on the fifth pitch. A little loose rock is found on the last pitch, but otherwise the climb is solid and well protected. (IV, 5.11d.)

Steven C. Risse

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.