American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

United States, Alaska, Caliban, Xanadu, The Maidens and Shot Tower, Arrigetch Peaks, Brooks Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Caliban, Xanadu, The Maidens and Shot Tower, Arrigetch Peaks, Brooks Range. In Late June and early July, Bob McGregor, Yan Marrand, Gary Brill and I flew to Circle Lake from Betties and then hiked to an airdrop site near the head of Arrigetch Creek. We all pioneered a fine route on excellent granite (5.8) on the south buttress of Caliban Peak. We then made a foray into the deep cirque walls to the west. Poor snow-and-ice conditions and massive and exfoliated flakes made routes impractical. McGregor and Marrand did a new route on the east rib of the south peak of Xanadu. During unsettled weather, McGregor, Marrand and Brill made the second ascent of the impressive north buttress of the central peak of the Maidens (V, 5.9). This climb, perhaps the most impressive ever done in the Arrigetch, was first climbed by John Markel and Bob Duggan in 1982, but it was never reported in the climbing literature. Marrand and Brill made a marathon hike to Shot Tower, just managing to make the ascent and get back to the lake for the float plane. In a tragic aftermath to the expedition, several weeks later Bob McGregor died from injuries suffered when a snow bridge in the Tantalus Range of British Columbia collapsed on him.

Fred Beckey

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