American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

United States, Alaska, Frederika Mountain, Wrangell Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Frederika Mountain, Wrangell Mountains. Frederika is a beautiful, snow cone just east of Mount Regal. The mountain was first named Mount Abercrombie but was later given its present name in honor of Frederick Schwatka, an early USGS explorer to the region. On September 4, Sean Ragain and Steve Mulholland flew to Skolai Creek to meet me for an attempt on unclimbed Frederika Mountain. I had just completed an eight-day hike up the Chitistone Canyon. We hiked to the toe of the Frederika Glacier that day at 3700 feet. For two days, it rained and the wind howled. Finally on the 7th, we were able to move up a glacier on Frederika’s southwestern flank to camp at 6700 feet. September 8 started out rainy and foggy. September 9 was beautiful. We ascended the icefall to an upper basin at 8000 feet. Then we went up 50° snow and ice to the west ridge at 9000 feet. From there we ascended the west face up 45° snow and ice to the summit (10,356 feet). The view to Mounts Sanford, Tom White, Logan, Bona and the rest of the Wrangell and St. Elias Mountains was spectacular.

Danny W. Kost, St. Elias Guides

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