American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

United States, Alaska, "Bounty Peak," P 7240 and P 7265, Western Chugach

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

“Bounty Peak,” P 7240 and P 7265, Western Chugach. Beautiful, remote “Bounty Peak” had not been climbed since 1969. (See AAJ, 1970, page 113.) Jim Sayler, Randy Howell and I did a new route on July 4, going up the east ridge, a non-technical ascent. Our one-day approach and climb was from a camp above the East Fork Eklutna drainage, seven miles away. A steep ice-and-snow gully and a wide snow band on the north face form a perfect cross, visible for miles, leading straight to the summit, which would make an esthetic new route. Sayler, Jeff McCarthy and I spent five days in the Hunter Creek drainage, fighting brush and mud to reach the remote Hunter Creek Glacier and do some climbing. We made the first ascents of P 7240 (“Devil’s Club Peak”) on July 26 and P 7265 (“Mountaineer’s Peak”) on July 28, both from the glacier. These were the last unclimbed 7000-foot peaks in the western Chugach. Nothing new had been attempted in the Hunter Creek area for 19 years, which attests to the undesirable alders and devil’s club found there. (See AAJ, 1971, page 334.)

Willy Hersman

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