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United States, Alaska, P 7400, East Side of the Ruth Gorge

P 7400, East Side of the Ruth Gorge. Doug Klewin and I climbed the southwest face of P 7400. The first eight pitches were 5.9 or 5.10 with an occasional aid move. After that, it was easier, 5.8 or so. The route was 22 pitches in all and included roofs, slabs, pendulums and cracks, all on excellent granite. The climb took 28 hours, including the descent by rappel. We then attempted the south face of Mount Dickey via a previously attempted route but retreated, having done the lower third in two days, because of bad rock and excessive rockfall.

Todd Bibler