American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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United States, Alaska, Alaskan Climbs Appearing as Full Articles

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

Alaskan Climbs Appearing as Full Articles. Aside from the climbs reported here, the following are covered in complete articles: the east face of Mount Russell, Foraker’s Infinite Spur, the northwest face of Mount Hunter, the Eroica route on Hunter and the west rib of the south face of Mount McKinley in winter. Foraker, Sultana Ridge. Todd Miner, Gordy Vernon and I were the first to visit the summit of Foraker in three years when we reached there on June 16 after a 6000-foot summit day up the northeast ridge. We spent a total of 18 days on the Sultana Ridge, much of it in wind. Only one of our five camps was exposed enough to require triple-thick walls. The most useful gear turned out to be wands, not the ice-and-snow gear we carried since the route was not difficult technically. The length of the ridge has probably kept people away, but it is safer than the more popular, avalanche-prone southeast ridge.

Willy Hersman

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