American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, USSR, Pik Pobedy Massif Traverse, Tien Shan

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Pik Pobedy Massif Traverse, Tien Shan. Continuing the training for the great Kangchenjunga traverse, planned for the spring of 1989, in August a Soviet team completed the whole traverse of the Pik Pobedy massif. The 26-member party was divided into two groups going a day apart. The traverse was made via Pik Vazha Pshavela (6918 meters, 22,798 feet), Pik Pobedy (7439 meters, 24,407 feet), Pik Pobedy East (7049 meters, 23,127 feet) and Military Surveyors Peak (Pik Voennye Topografi; 6873 meters, 22,550 feet). The 20-kilometer-long ridge, with altitudes from 6000 to 7439 meters, was climbed in a record time of seven days. Despite strong winds and heavy snowfalls, all 26 members

succeeded in completing the climb. Pik Pobedy, the northernmost 7000er, is also one of the most dangerous. Since 1955, 53 people have died on its slopes.

Józef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland

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