American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Western China, Syurenfen Attempt, Tien Shan

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Syurenfen Attempt, Tien Shan. Our expedition, composed of Junichi Sinozaki, Yuji Kato, Masato Kameda, Susumi Takagishi, Toshikazu Yokosawa and me as leader, hoped to climb the southeast ridge of Syurenfen (6627 meters, 21,742 feet), which lies due west of Urumchi. The approach route along the Muzarut River was difficult because of much glacial meltwater, which delayed us for some days. From Base Camp to Camp III, we traveled on the moraines of the Karakume Glacier for 30 kilometers. We established Base Camp, Camps I, II, III, IV and V at 2500, 3100, 3500, 4050, 5250 and 5950 meters on July 20, 23, 27, 29, August 6 and 12. We had to evacuate two members with altitude sickness from Camp IV, which cost us time. The weather became bad as soon as we established Camp V with heavy snowfall and wind. On August 20, from Camp V we climbed 500 meters along a snow-and-rock ridge, traversed and ascended a 300-meter, 60° ice wall to reach the col between the main summit and an eastern foresummit at 6300. This was our high point.

Kazuo Tokushima, Japanese Alpine Club

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