American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Western China, P 6903, Kunlun

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

P 6903, Kunlun. Our expedition had as general leader Dr. Chotaro Naka-jima, as climbing members Hironori Ito, Naoki Mohri, Hidetomo Shirai and Masaharu Mutsuyoshi and me as climbing leader. The original plan was to start from Kashi, go east via Yecheng, Mazar, Dahongliutan, Tianshuihai through the Aksayquin heights and climb the virgin peak Qun Mustagh, but the water in the river northeast of Goza Lake was unusually high. We then turned to P 6903 (22,648 feet), which lies upstream on the Cong Ce Glacier, 100 kilometers west of Qun Mustagh. We placed Base Camp at the tongue of the glacier and three more camps higher. On August 22, Ito and Mohri attacked the peak. Mohri had just reached the summit when a big snowslide occurred. Mohri was carried down 100 meters but Ito stopped him with the rope. We left Base Camp on August 26.

Susumu Nohda, Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto University, Japan

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.