AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma and Cho Oyu

Shisha Pangma and Cho Oyu. Both peaks were climbed by the standard routes, by which the first ascents had been made. Shisha Pangma was climbed in classic style from Base Camp at 5100 meters but without high-altitude porters. Camps were at 5700, 6300, 6900 and 7350 meters. Shisha Pangma was climbed by the following: Austrians Klaus Gürtler and Peter Konzert and German Tillmann Fischbach on May 15 (Netherlander Edward Becker got to the central summit); Germans Bernd Kullmann, Adolf Metzger, Klaus Schuhmann and Austrian Herta Og on May 14; Germans Jürgen Schütz, Thomas Hochholzer, Wolfgang Kunzendorf, Dieter Thomann and Austrian Hans Bämthaler on May 17. Germans Walter Hölzler and Peter Kuge got to the central summit on May 15. (This summit has previously often been referred to as the western summit.) Cho Oyu was climbed alpine-style from Base Camp at 4900 meters. Bivouacs were at 5500, 6000, 6500 and 7300 meters.The summit of Cho Oyu was reached on May 30 by Gürtler, Konzert and Fischbach and on June 3 by Bärnthaler, Kunzendorf and Thomann. This expedition, of which I was the leader, approached and left by way of Kathmandu and Nepal.

GÜnter HÄrter, Deutscher Alpenverein