American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, Tibet, Cho Oyu, North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Cho Oyu, North Face. Our expedition scouted the previously almost unknown north face of Cho Oyu and climbed a fine direct route. The face is impressive: four kilometers wide and more than 2000 meters high. It is hidden by smaller peaks in front of it. All seven members reached the summit. On November 2, Dr. Iztok Tomazin made a solo push to the summit from Camp III at 7200 meters. He descended the normal route, completing the trip back down to Base Camp 29 hours after he had left Camp III. Two days later, Camp IV was established at 7550 meters. From there, on November 5, Viki Grošelj and Jože Rozman made a variant slightly to the right and climbed to the summit. Marko Prezelj and Rado Nadvešnik on November 8 and Blaž Jereb and I on November 9 climbed to the top. The hardest part of this difficult route was the exit from the last pitch of the couloir at 8140 meters. The weather was good except for very low temperatures. Almost all members suffered some frostbite.

Roman Robas, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia

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