Shahan Dok, Central Hindu Raj. Last year we made an unsuccessful attempt on this mountain of which we made the first ascent this year. We set up Base Camp on July 2 at 3800 meters. We again followed the same route along the east ridge from Shahan Dok II to the main peak. We established Camps I and II at 4800 and 5300 meters. Camp III was placed on July 21 on the shoulder of the main peak at 5600 meters. Although in 1987 we had climbed the ice ridge to the midpoint, in 1988 there was much less snow. On July 22 at 5:30 A.M. Junichi Tanaka, Yoshiki Yoneyama and I left Camp III and reached the summit, (6320 meters, 20,735 feet) at 2:20 P.M. mainly on steep ice and snow. Shahan Dok III (5893 meters, 19,333 feet) was climbed by Japanese in 1986.
Makoto Nebuka, Japanese Alpine Club