American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Rakhiot Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Rakhiot Peak. Our expedition consisted of Hwang Nam-Kyu, Lee KwangJae, Kim Jong-Chul, Jung Dong-Kun and me as leader. Rakhiot Peak (7070 meters, 23,196 feet) is on the route by which Hermann Buhl made the first ascent

of Nanga Parbat. We established Base Camp, Camps I, II, III and Bivouac Camp at 3965,4500, 5250, 6100 and 6850 meters on May 16, 20, 25, June 12 and 14. At Camp II we changed from the original route to avoid avalanche danger from between Rakhiot Peak and the Silver Saddle and headed toward the left glacier. We had difficulty crossing the icefall and had deep snow. Jung and I made the first summit attempt starting on June 13. We bivouacked at 6680 meters after climbing four pitches of the 400-meter-high Rakhiot ice wall, part of which was 70°, and got back to Camp III on June 15 in bad weather. On June 18, Hwang and Kim left the bivouac at 1:40 A.M., finished climbing the ice wall, using the fixed ropes on the first four pitches, and got to the summit at 1:50 P.M.

Won Dae-Shik, Ko-Ryong Alpine Club, South Korea

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