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Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Schell Route Attempt

Nanga Parbat, Schell Route Attempt. Our members included Jim Bock, Bruno Hasler, Andy Lapkass, Tom Mereness and me. We left Gilgit on August 29 and set up Base Camp at 3700 meters in the upper Rupal valley on the 30th. We kept five porters to help carry loads halfway to Camp I, which we established at 5100 meters on August 31. We then concentrated on stocking Camp I, fixing rope above it and carrying to Camp II. On September 4, our first move to Camp II was halted when Hasler lost his pack at 6000 meters and watched it roll out of sight down 2000 meters. The only gear recovered was his poleless tent, a wool hat and a foam pad. This also marked the end of our clear weather and the start of a lot of snowfall. This resulted in dangerous avalanche conditions. We reached our previous high point on September 20, but made only 150 meters of progress the next day through deep snow. A slough slide rolled over Lapkass, leaving him hanging by only one ice tool. That was the last straw and after cleaning the route, we left Base Camp on September 25. Overall, we found the route dangerous, with rockfall down low and avalanches higher.

Charley Mace