American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat via Rakiot Face Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Nanga Parbat via Rakiot Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Angelo Giovanetti, Claudio Toldo, Costante Carpella, Francesco Mich, Roberto Dall’O and me as leader. On June 6, after two days of travel, we arrived at Base Camp at 4000 meters at the foot of the north face of Nanga Parbat. From the first day, we encountered great objective dangers in the form of avalanches which swept the face at all hours day and night. On June 9, we placed Advance Base at 4500 meters. In ten days we fixed 1600 meters of rope on the least dangerous part of the lower face and established a camp at 5400 meters. From the Diama Col we reached a buttress at 6500 meters on June 20. At that point, we had overcome the hardest part of the climb technically, but we needed acclimatization to be able to continue along the new route. However, because of a strong rise in temperature, the route became so dangerous that we gave up the attempt to reach the summit.

Almo Giambisi, Club Alpino Italiano

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