American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Batura

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Batura. Our expedition led by Piotr Mlotecki set out from Aliabad on June 6. The approach took five days. Base Camp was established on a beautiful meadow below the moraine of the Batoqshi Glacier at 4000 meters. On June 12, Camp I was placed at 4650 meters. Camp II was 1000 meters higher on the Batoqshi Pass. This part of the route required fixed rope. We made Camp III at 6200 meters below a couloir that leads to the crest. On June 8, Zygmunt Heinrich, German Volker Stallbohm and I left Camp III for the summit. After six days of difficult climbing, we reached the summit (7785 meters, 25,541 feet) at 7:20 A.M. of July 13. While descending, we did not manage to find our bivouac tent. The weather broke and we had to bivouac three nights in snow caves before we got back to the tents of Camp III. The return from there was also very hard. On July 17, still in Camp III, Stallbohm had a vein inflammation. The next day, at Camp II, Heinrich had an internal hemorrhage. All the rest of the expedition had to help them down to Base Camp. We warn others that the porters do not comply with the regulations and demand unwarranted higher wages.

Pawel Kubalski, Klub Wysokogórski, Warszawa, Poland

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.