American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Disteghil Sar Attempt and Ascent of One of the Madhil Sar Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Disteghil Sar Attempt and Ascent of One of the Madhil Sar Peaks. Kotaru Nakajima, Shinischi Kohara and I had permission to climb Disteghil Sar from the Malangutti Glacier. We placed Base Camp at 3600 meters on the Malangutti Glacier on June 6. After failing to get past ice pinnacles and crevasses on the west side of the glacier, we got up the middle of it but were unable to pass crevasses on Disteghil Sar at 4200 meters. We moved to the Madhil Glacier which flows southeast into the Malangutti. (This region was visited by Irish climbers in 1986. See AAJ, 1987 page 289.) Kohara was injured. Nakajima and I climbed P 5670 (18,603 feet), the most northeasterly of the Madhil Sar peaks, on June 19. Our attempt on P 5200, the most westerly, failed 100 meters from the top. We did not succeed on the highest of the four peaks either.

Jun Goto, Tokyo Metropolitan Government Alpine Club, Japan

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