American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Disteghil Sar and Momhil Sar Attempts

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Disteghil Sar and Momhil Sar Attempts. Our expedition hoped to make the first ascent of Disteghil Sar (7885 meters, 25,869 feet) from the north. We were Ulla and Helmut Freilinger, Bernhard Tschochner, Werner Zacharias, Hartwig Dorn, Kurt Gross, Helmut Härtinger, Konrad Wierer, Robert Tanner, Roland Dutschko and I as leader. After a four-day approach up the Shimshal gorge, we set up Base Camp at 4300 meters in July. Unfortunately, the way to the foot of the north face of Disteghil Sar was terribly threatened by ice avalanches. One or two huge powder avalanches swept our intended approach route each day. This two-kilometer-long passage led below the north faces of Trivor and Bularung. In view of the danger, our liaison officer granted us permission to try instead the northeast ridge of Momhil Sar (7345 meters, 24,098 feet). We had to give up this attempt at 6700 meters because of bad weather after we had established camps at 5800 and 6600 meters. The ridge was objectively safe, exposed and beautiful. There were stretches of 60° ice. Despite the permission which the liaison officer had given us in writing, the Pakistani authorities collected extra money from us and have forbidden me to return to climb in Pakistan for two years.

Herbert Tschochner, Deutscher Alpenverein

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