American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Pumari Chhish South and Yazghil Dome South Attempts

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Pumari Chhish South and Yazghil Dome South Attempts. Our expedition had two objectives: to make the first ascent of Pumari Chhish South and to gather granite samples to determine the rate of rise of the Disteghil Sar region. After financial difficulties with porters from Hispar village during the approach, we got to Base Camp at 4400 meters on July 20. On July 21, we placed Camp I at 5100 meters and on the 25th, Camp II at 6000 meters on the col between Yazghil Dome and Kunyang Chhish North. The access route rapidly became too dangerous because of falling séracs, stripped-away fixed ropes and crumbling snow bridges. We decided to shift our objective to Yazghil Dome South (7400 meters, 24,279 feet) via a rock-and-snow ridge. We set up a new Camp II at 6000 meters on August 1 and Camp III at 6700 meters on the 8th. A week of bad weather ensued. We were stopped at 7250 meters by the fresh snow after several tries. Since our porters were to return on August 16, we had to give up the attempt. Fifty kilograms of granite samples are being studied in the laboratory. The members were Dr. M. Masi, J. Biju-Duval, N. Bargasse, M. Kelle, H. Loupy, geologist A. Pêcheur, P. Renault, J.M. Suarnet, E. Tant, A. Tourres and I as leader.

Jacques Kelle, Club Alpin Français

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