American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, P 19,950, Balcchish Range, Hispar Wall

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

P 19,950, Balcchish Range, Hispar Wall. Jamie Thin and I climbed P 19,550 (5959 meters) at the eastern end of the Balcchish Range on the southern side of the Hispar Glacier. We crossed an easy icefall to bivouac below the 2500-foot ice headwall of the peak. Climbing this at night to avoid avalanche risk, we reached good mixed climbing on the summit ridge on snow, ice and rock with numerous difficult granite towers. A snow-hole bivouac was made halfway along the ridge. We climbed the final section of the summit ridge and reached the summit on August 8. The descent took two days.

Roger Lawson, Durham University Mountaineering Club, England

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