AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Pakistan, Latok III

Latok III. Latok III, which rises above the Baintha Lupka Glacier has, according to Pakistani officials we talked to, had twenty official attempts. However, our ascent was only the second, following the Japanese first ascent in 1977 when they climbed the route we climbed, the west buttress, but in Himalayan style. The route rises 1700 meters and is of UIAA VI and A2 difficulty for many pitches. Marco Marciano, Enrico Rosso and I reached the summit (6950 meters, 22,802 feet) on June 20 at seven P.M., which forced us to a rapid and risky descent to our bivouac at 6500 meters. In the previous days, we had made seven bivouacs, which were raised to ten in all for the ascent and descent. The route was climbed in winter conditions because of the heavy snowfall from the day of our arrival through the next twelve days.

Marco Forcatura, Club Alpino Italiano