American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Uzun Brakk Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Uzun Brakk Peaks. Our expedition was to train young German climbers in the high mountains. Base Camp was placed on the Biafo Glacier at 4000 meters and Camp I on the Uzun Brakk Glacier at 4800 meters. We climbed two new routes above the Uzun Brakk Glacier. (In 1980, Scots climbed the 6000-meter peak at the head of the glacier, which they called Uzun Brakk. This was reported in AAJ, 1982, on pages 275-6. Editor.) The first (c. 5500 meters, 18,045 feet) had been climbed by its southwest side by Americans in 1987 and was called “Ogre Stump” by them (AAJ, 1988, page 19). This lies on the eastern side of the glacier. Stefan Köhler, Eduard Koch, Christian Fütterer, Bernd Eberle, Michael Saumweber and leader Ulrich Eberhardt climbed this peak by the southwest face (UIA A VI to VII, A4). This line was clearly to the right of the American route, although the last few pitches may have been the same. Adrak Brakk (c. 5800 meters, 19,029 feet) lies on the west side of the glacier. Michael Lendroth, Jürgen Wittmann, Andreas Dick, Christoph Zuleger and I climbed the northeast face (VI to VII, A4), reached the top of the buttress but did not go to the summit. We fixed about 400 meters of rope on both climbs and removed it later. The Uzun Brakk area is very good for rock climbing with excellent rock although the cracks are usually not very deep.

Michael Kinne, Deutscher Alpenverein

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