American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Haramosh Southwest Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Haramosh Southwest Face. Our expedition was composed of Janusz Baranek, leader, Mieczystaw Jarosz, Mirosiaw Konewka, Kazimierz Malczyk, Andrzej Mostek, Jan Nogas, Dr. Jadwiga Skowronska, Jacek Wiltosinski and Karimierz Wszolek. Base Camp was at 3200 meters in the Ishkapal valley. The Ishkapal valley was first visited in 1984 by a Polish reconnaissance team, which “discovered” the 4000-meter-high southwest face of Haramosh. Members of that team climbed two lower summits: Redam (5300 meters, 17,389 feet) by Krzysztof Baraniok, Malczk and me and Godeli (5325 meters, 17,470 feet) by Mostek and Wiltosinski. Camps I, II and III were established at 4900, 5900 and 6600 meters on June 29, July 4 and 10. The lower part of the face to Camp I was of 50° ice and a very dangerous couloir with crevasses. From Camp I to II, it was rock, partly UIAA V, and 45° to 50° ice. Between Camps II and III, there was very difficult climbing on vertical rock and very steep ice (V and 70° ice). From Camp III Jarosz, Malczyk and I crossed a dangerous hanging glacier and bivouacked at the foot of an icefall. The next day, July 28, after 16 hours of continuous climbing, we reached the summit (7397 meters, 24,072 feet). Climbing the partly overhanging icefall and steep ice wall with vertical séracs was very difficult. Baranek, Mostek and Wszolek reached the summit on July 30. That same day Konowka and Wiltosinski crossed the virgin top of Sari Sumari (c. 7200 meters) but strong wind and lack of time prevented the ascent to the main summit.

Marek Pronobis, Klub Wysokogórski Gliwice, Poland

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