American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Uli Biaho Tower, South Face, and Solo on the Great Trango Tower

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Uli Biaho Tower, South Face, and Solo on the Great Trango Tower. Our group consisted of Rosanna Manfrini, Maurizio Venzo, Kurt Walde and me as leader. On June 4, we placed Base Camp at 4300 meters on the side of the Trango Glacier. For two weeks it stormed with abundant snowfall. On June 17, all four of us moved supplies to a small camp at 5800 meters at the base of the immense south wall of the Uli Biaho Tower. On the 18th, we attacked the face and climbed a very difficult 100 meters before descending for the night. On June 19, we returned, spending three days ascending the red granite, which was vertical, very compact and encrusted with ice. We limited aid climbing as much as possible. All four of us reached the summit (6290 meters, 20,637 feet) late on June 21. All night and on the next day, we descended rappelling and got to Base Camp in the evening. Rosanna Manfrini is the first woman to have made such a difficult climb of a 6000-meter peak. The vertical rise is 800 meters and the difficulty from 5.10 to 5.11 and A3. On June 25, I left Base Camp alone, crossed the Trango Glacier and approached the Great Trango Tower. Without any protection gear, I attacked the north face by a route I had studied from the Uli Biaho Tower. In a little less than nine hours, I climbed the 2000 meters to the summit (6280 meters, 20,604 feet). This was the first solo ascent and the fourth following Norwegian, English and American ascents.

Maurizio Giordani, Club Alpino .Italiano

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