AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Pakistan, Nameless Tower of Trango Attempt

Nameless Tower of Trango Attempt. Hisao Onami, Izuru Okada, Yasushi Sato, Masahiro Ishiguro and I reached Base Camp at 4150 meters on the Dunge Glacier on July 15. After ferrying loads to the base of the wall, on July 27 we began to attempt what probably was the Yugoslav route climbed in 1987. We found fixed rope, but it was almost useless. On July 28 to 30 we climbed seven pitches and fixed ropes to the lower pedestal. On the 31st we set up Advance Base at 5600 meters on the pedestal. Bad weather stopped us for three days. From August 5 to 8 we climbed 14 pitches. On the 8th Okada, Ishiguro and I bivouacked at 6050 meters, 200 meters below the summit, but on the morning of August 9, the weather was bad and so we had to retreat to Base Camp.

Masaharu Gando, Japan