American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum I and II

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Gasherbrum I and II. A Czechoslovakian expedition led by Robert Gálfy succeeded in climbing both of these peaks. Gálfy, František Šoltés and Ivan Urbanovic, Jr. climbed to the summit of Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak). Two women of the same expedition, Lívia Klembárová and Margita Šterbová climbed Gasherbrum II. A Japanese women’s expedition put leader Shiori Hashimoto, Nobuko Yanagizawa, Mayuri Yasuhara, Fumiye Kimura, Miharu Kitagawa and a high-altitude porter onto the summit of Gasherbrum II from Camp III at 7450 meters on August 8. This was the first time that five women had climbed an 8000er together. A Swiss commercial expedition was led by Max Eiselin. Swiss Norbert Joos, Diego Wellig, Philipp Zehnder and Diego Schär on June 23, Germans Horst Wasmann and Heinz Hollweg on June 25 and Swiss Rafael Wellig and Rinaldo Borra on July 5 reached the summit of Gasherbrum II. On June 25, Netherlanders Grjan van Waardenburg, Rene de Bos, Hans van der Meulen and Jeroen Jacobse completed the ascent of Gasherbrum II. An 11-person French expedition, led by Christian Bourgeon, changed its objective because of bad weather from Gasherbrum I to Gasherbrum II. On August 13, Gilles Gadani and Serge Ravel reached the summit. Frenchman Hervé Sachet organized a commercial trip to Gasherbrum II, but he was the only one to reach the summit, which he did on August 7. A 13-member expedition from the Netherlands led by Ronald Naar to Gasherbrum II is said to have been successful, but we have not been able to find out who reached the top. There were a number of unsuccessful expeditions as well. Mexicans led by Jorge Hermosillo failed on Gasherbrum I; Jorge Luis Brito died from pulmonary edema at 7200 meters on June 25. French under the leadership of Jean Pierre Fedèle failed on Gasherbrum II; Michel Basson died of pulmonary edema on July 16. Austrians led by Marcus Schmuck, French led by Jean-Pierre Boyer and Japanese led by Kazuo Tobita failed on Gasherbrum II.

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