American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, K2 Attempt and Borad Peak Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

K2 Attempt and Broad Peak Ascent. On July 16, Oscar Cadiach, Gabriel Gutiérrez, Xavier Pérez, Anton Ricard, Jaume Torm, Enric Hernández, Jordi Canals, Carles Valles, Lluis Gómez, Toni Arbonés, Joan Gelabert and I were all in Base Camp along with Jugoslavs, Britons and Americans. From July 21 to 24, we carried supplies to the foot of the Abruzzi Ridge, but then began the normal pattern: bad weather. We carried to Camp I at 6100 meters and slept there on July 28. Not until August 7 could we establish Camp II at 6800 meters. On August 14, we carried to Camp III at 7750 meters. Despite sorties, it was not until September 1 that three climbers got to the site of Camp III. They found nothing and dug a snow hole. The next day they climbed to 8150 meters below the Bottleneck and dug another snow hole while four others carried up replacement food to Camp III. September 3 was to have been the summit day, but gale winds drove everyone back. All descended to Base Camp. We decided to give up on the 11th. However, on September 9 and 10 Ricard, Canals, Cadiach, Gómez and I ascended to the summit of Broad Peak.

Jordi Magrinyà, AAEEMI, Secció de Muntanya, Vails, Spain

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