American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, K2, South-Southwest Buttress Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

K2, South-Southwest Buttress Attempt. Our objective was the south- southwest buttress of K2, first climbed by Poles in 1986. We were Stane Belak, Dr. Damjan Meško, Milan Romih, Slavko Sveticic, Andrej Štremfelj, Filip Bence, Rado Fabjan, Pavle Kozjek, Danilo Tic and I as leader. The approach march was exciting due to a porter strike on the Baltoro Glacier. We established Base Camp on the Godwin Austen Glacier at 5200 meters on June 20. Advance Base, Camps I, II and III were set up at 5370, 6335, 6750 and 7400 meters on June 22, 24, 28 and July 11. On July 13, Štremfelj and Bence reached the highest point of 8100 meters, where they found an old French tent. They intended to establish Camp IV 100 meters higher at the top of a big gully and make the first summit attempt in the next days. Bad weather turned them back. All later summit attempts finished below this point due to bad weather. The last attempt was made on August 6. On August 9, the expedition departed from Base Camp. We left about 3300 meters of fixed rope on the mountain and complete Camps II and III. We could not remove them because of the weather. From July 13 till August 9, there were only six days of good weather.

TomAž Jamnik, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia

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