American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Dharamsura, Southwest and Southeast Ridges, Tos Nala, Kulu

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Dharamsura, Southwest and Southeast Ridges, Tos Nala, Kulu. Donna McBain, leader, my wife Rachel Cox, Steve Risse and I arrived in Base Camp on the eastern moraine of the Tos Glacier on September 21. After 4½ days of continuous rain and snow, the weather cleared somewhat on September 27. We placed Advance Base at 4800 meters on the glacier southwest of Dharamsura (White Sail) on September 29. All four started up the unclimbed lower portion of the southwest ridge of Dharamsura on the 30th. On October 1, we camped at 5500 meters. The next day, we attempted to climb rock on the ridge crest, encountering difficult climbing and making slow progress. After the return to the 5500-meter camp, McBain and Risse descended to Advance Base. On October 3, my wife and I followed a system of couloirs about 100 meters northwest of the ridge crest, including 150 meters of fifth-class mixed climbing. This led directly to the high point of the southwest ridge at 6000 meters. From here we followed the slightly descending ridge crest until we intersected the 1977 British southwest-ridge route in a 5850-meter col. We camped at 5800 meters. On October 4, we continued up the ridge to the summit (6400 meters, 21,129 feet) and descended to Advance Base via the 1977 route. Meanwhile, beginning on October 3, McBain and Risse started up the steep snow and ice on the lower south face, camped at 5200 meters and climbed to the southeast ridge and a camp at 5800 meters. On October 5, they got to the summit and descended that same day to Advance Base.

Peter Keleman

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