American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Garhwal, Kamet and Abi Gamin, 1987

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Kamet and Abi Gamin, 1987. Our expedition was made up of Dr. S.C. Mate, P.D. Nirgudkar, V.V. Kunte, S.G. Katti, Heera Lohia, Milind Pote, Anil Chav an, Mrs. S.S. Katti, Miss Nandini Lohia, Dr. D.S. Rokade, Vinayak Mulik, Vijay Jadhav and me as leader. We established Base Camp at Vasundhara Talat 15,500 feet on August 4, 1987. We established Camps I, II, III, IV, V and VI at 16,500, 17,200, 18,000, 20,500,22,000 and 23,000 feet on August 9, 12, 15, 21, 25 and 28 respectively. Because of wind, we placed Camp VI 500 feet below Meade’s Col. Abi Gamin’s summit was reached on August 30 by Dr. Mate, H. Lohia and Sangay Sherpa; on September 7 by Miss Lohia and Sherpas Pasang and Sangay Jr; on September 14 by Kunte, Mrs. Katti, and Sherpas Nima and Wang Chu; and on September 15 by me with members of the Indian Air Force team. The summit of Kamet was reached on September 7 by H. Lohia, Sangay Sherpa, Bara Tashi and me. Unfavorable weather and five cases of serious frostbite prevented an attempt on Mana. Drs. Mate, Rokade and I did high-altitude medical research. Hemoglobin, urine examination and pulmonary function testing was done on all members and high-altitude porters.

D.K. Kulkarni, Sports and Research Foundation, India

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