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Asia, Nepal, Manaslu

Manaslu. Our expedition was composed of Quito Saler, Josep María Bley, Josep Albert, Josep María Molina, Josep Pujante, Joan Agulló, Manuel Penalva, Monserrate Váquez, José Manuel Rodríguez, Andrés Sánchez and me as leader. On September 1, we began to establish Base Camp at 3600 meters two hours above the village of Sama. By the 10th, we had reconnoitered the route to Camp I at 4800 meters in poor weather and the entire expedition had arrived. On September 14, Camp II was installed at 5500 meters on Nike Col. A big snowstorm halted progress. Finally on the 24th, we could dig Camp II out. On the 25th, we ascended the icefall between Camps II and III, the most dangerous part of the climb, and fixed 400 meters of rope. Camp III was set up at 6300 meters. An avalanche above Camp III carried away a climber and three Sherpas. Rinjing had to be evacuated. On October 3, Camp IV was set up on the north col at 7150 meters, but the next day hurricane winds prevented going higher. On the descent, we were caught in two avalanches but luckily could escape from them. After several unsuccessful attempts, several members had to return home to work. Finally, on October 19, Joan Agulló and Ang Lhakpa Sherpa set out on one last attempt. After changing from the Japanese route, by which the first ascent had been made in 1956, to the Korean route at 7100 meters, they bivouacked on the ridge and reached the summit on October 25.

Antoni López de Haro, Centre Excursionista de Premiá de Mar, Spain