American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Everest and Lhotse

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Everest and Lhotse. Our 19-member expedition was led by Choi Chang-Min. I was the climbing leader. We prepared the way to Camp II, advancing through the Khumbu Icefall in partnership with the Americans. After Camp II at 6400 meters was set up on September 7, the weather was so bad that we retired to Base Camp. Camp III at 7250 meters on the south-pillar route was carved into a 60° slope on September 16. On September 18, ropes were fixed to 7800 meters. The next day, Camp IV was established at 8060 meters. The first summit team, Kim Chang-Seon, Uhm Hong-Gil, Pema Dorje Sherpa and another Sherpa left Camp IV on September 26 ahead of seven Frenchmen and two Sherpas. From the South Summit, the French and Korean climbers alternated the lead. Finally at 2:30 P.M. Kim and Pema Dorje stood on the summit, followed by Uhm. The other Sherpa turned back at the South Summit. On September 29, Jang Bong-Wan, Jang Byeong-Ho and Jeong Seung-Kwon got to the summit. American Stacy Allison and a Sherpa were on top on the same day. A third attempt on Everest and the ascent of Lhotse were planned for the closing of the Seoul Olympic Games. The Lhotse party, Jeong Ho-Jin, Ihm Hyeong-Chil, Park Kwae-Don and Park Hee-Dong, placed their Camp IV where the Slovaks had made their Lhotse Camp IV at 7950 meters. They left camp at four A.M. on October 2 and reached the summit of Lhotse at nine A.M. That same day, I had left at three A.M. from Everest Camp IV and climbed to the summit of Everest at the same time as Americans Peggy Luce, Geoff Tobin and three Sherpas.

Nam Seon-Woo, Korean Alpine Federation

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