American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam, Danish Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Ama Dablam, Danish Ascent. Our team of six Danes, led by Caspar Sutton, climbed Ama Dablam by the south ridge. We established Base Camp on October 1 at 4900 meters in the upper Mingbo valley. All members carried to Advance Base at 5700 meters. From there, Bo Christensen, Søren Smidt and I started alpine-style on October 8. We stayed two nights on top of the Red Tower at 6000 meters to become fitter before going to the ice shelf at 6350 meters. From this bivouac, Christensen and Smidt reached the summit on October 11.I had to turn back at 6450 meters for lack of acclimatization. On October 19, Henrik Jessen Hansen and Jan Mathorne got to the summit on their second attempt, having reached 6200 meters with Jan Nicolaisen a week before. Hansen’s feet were frostbitten during the climb.

Michael Hjorth, Dansk Bjergklub

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.