American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Ama Dablam Attempt. Geoff Hewitt, Chris Bradshaw, Gareth Walker and I arrived at Base Camp near Mingbo on March 22. In the area was a Canadian team of six, also with permission for the south ridge of Ama Dablam. They planned to fix the entire route and we were climbing alpine-style. While moving a load from an old Advance Base to abetter site, I was caught in a rock avalanche and cracked two ribs. After a night at Advance Base, I managed to return to Base Camp, crawling the last kilometer; I stayed there for the duration of the expedition. Hewitt had to retire from the team with altitude problems, not being able to proceed above Camp I. His unselfish efforts at load carrying helped to establish the remaining pair at Camp I in a strong position on the ridge. The route was not in good condition. Following a very lean winter, there was a great deal of loose rock, with the gullies especially in a dangerous state. Because of the conditions, the Canadians took eight days to get from Camp II to Camp III. Soon thereafter, one of them was killed and later they withdrew. Our pair worried about the loose nature of the climbing and cleared the mountain after eleven days, having reached only 5770 meters.

Peter T. Hill, Royal Geographical Society

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