Makalu. Jean Troillet and I twice headed for the west face of Makalu in 1988. In the spring, we had to call it off since Troillet broke his leg during the approach. During the autumn, we both returned joining Hans Eitel’s expedition. Troillet and I arrived at Base Camp late, on October 7, where we worked together with Kurt Walde and Robert Patscheider. Because the west face was in bad condition, on October 11 and 12 Troillet and I climbed to 7200 meters on the west buttress for acclimatization. On October 17, we two climbed to 7000 meters along with Kurt Walde, but violent winds turned us back. The other part of the expedition was composed of Hans Eitel and Elsa and Carlos Carsolio. The latter climbed to the summit by the normal route solo on October 12, but he was so exhausted on the descent that he developed pulmonary edema and had to be given oxygen and helped down by Spaniards who came to his rescue.
Erhard Loretan, Club Alpin Suisse