American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Makalu Attempt and Kangchungtse Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Makalu Attempt and Kangchungtse Ascent. Our expedition hoped to climb Makalu by the original French route. We were Jordi Agulló, Jordi Anglés. Serge Benet, Antoni Bros, Dr. Josep Canyellas, Adrià Font, Jaume Matas, Jordi Montané, Francesc Zamora, Francesc Zapater and I as leader. After 16 days of approach, we set up Base Camp on September 3 at 5200 meters at the junction of the Barun and lower Chago Glaciers. We established Camp III on the Makalu Col on September 23 at 7400 meters. On the 27th, Canyellas and Zamora climbed Kangchungtse to study the route up to the summit of Makalu. On September 30, we placed Camp IV at 7850 meters on Makalu’s north face. The first summit attempt took place on October 1, but Bros, Anglés and Matas had to withdraw from 8000 meters because of Bros’ badly frostbitten hands. Severe winds foiled further attempts. On October 13, Zamora, Zapater and two Sherpas had to give up their attempt in order to help Mexican Carlos Carsolio down from 7300 meters. He was descending alone suffering from pulmonary edema.

Josep Aced, Centre Exursionista de Terrassa, Spain

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